Quinta do Vesuvio

Quinta
do Vesuvio has rocketed to fame during just a few years of ownership by the
Symington family, who are well known to anyone who has more than a passing
interest in what comes out of the Douro. Nevertheless, the estate has
considerable history, starting with the Ferreira family who established the
vineyard in the early 19th century. Of these the most notable is Dona Antónia
Adelaide Ferreira, referred to locally as the Ferreirinha; she shaped, terraced
and planted the vineyards, a task which reputedly took thirteen years to
complete. And with the death of her husband, she continued to build on her
success, establishing a domaine which was described by James Suckling, writing
well over a century later in
Vintage Port, as "The showpiece of the
Douro". The
quinta she built (is there no end to this woman's talents?) is an
impressive building on the south bank of the Douro, midway between Numao and
Lavandeira. It contained eight massive granite
lagares, each holding
twenty-five pipes of wine; not quite big enough for a game of five-a-side, but
you could certainly have a good kickabout with a couple of mates.
The wines produced here in the 19th century were very well received. Dona
Antónia Adelaide Ferreira developed her domaine, and her empire; she owned
thirty separate
quintas, and oversaw an expansion in her estate to over
400 ha, of which 100 ha was planted to vines, before her death in 1896. Her
descendants managed the estate for the next century, but the property entered a
period of slow decline, compounded by a number of disasters along the way.
Phylloxera resulted in a loss of many of the vines, and these were replaced by
thousands of olive trees which proved to be a bad business decision; they were
quite unprofitable. The vineyard area declined, in part because some sites lying
along the banks of the Douro were lost when the river was dammed in 1973. By the
late 20th century this left the estate ripe for an injection of new capital and
new enthusiasm. This 'showpiece' was purchased by the Symingtons in 1989.

The
Symington family, the clan responsible for some of Port's greatest names -
Graham's,
Dow's, and
Warre's to name just three - have
maintained Quinta do Vesuvio as a separate entity within their portfolio, and
have sensitively blended some of the new winemaking techniques available with
the traditional practices already in place. Temperature-controlled fermentation
equipment has been installed, but the granite
lagares, where the grapes
are still trodden by human foot, remain. Of the 400 ha, about 100 ha remain
planted, mostly with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga
Francesca and Tinta Barroca. With such a large area of vineyard it is only
natural that soils and microclimates vary, but the entire vineyard is classified
as grade A. The ancient olive trees are also put to good use; there is Quinta do
Vesuvio olive oil, as well as honey, almonds and oranges! The wine is bottled
exclusively as a single
quinta vintage Port, with quality maintained by
strict selection; typically only 20-25% of Vesuvio's output goes into the wine
each year. Although the total annual production of the estate is 575 pipes, the
quantity of
Quinta do Vesuvio released each year stands at a maximum of
50 pipes (it may be less depending on the vintage), the equivalent of 3000
cases.
(13/4/05)
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